Chow Down on a Spicy Trinidadian Breakfast

Every Sunday morning at 8 a.m. sharp, my family of seven gets up at the sound of horns at the gate. Grandpa is here with breakfast, of course. He comes in, cheeks flushed, and carefully unwraps a blue-and-white checkered dish towel from a wicker basket. We all raise our hands to celebrate Julie's mango harvest this week. When the unbearable heat of the morning spreads through the walls of our house, sucking on the bones of an icy ripe mango is pure cooling bliss. But in my opinion, unripe mangoes — what we Trinidadians call "green mangoes" - are superior.Standing 35 feet above the green grass in Grandpa's garden, casting a shadow over his house, stands the most majestic tree. There are bright yellow and orange fruits that have been burned by the sun, with a slight pink tint, as well as some valuable unripe green mangoes hidden in the leaves. Problem: Grandpa is only willing to share his fruit when it's fully grown, but what he doesn't know can't hurt him, right? His grandchildren, including me, are very cunning. One person distracts grandpa while the other climbs up a tree and plucks unripe seeds directly from the branch. (depending on your luck, you can find them on the ground.) If the grandfather catches a thief, he is addressed with Arabic curses, followed by a mighty soup (the sucking sound made when the tongue comes into contact with the teeth is a sure sign of irritation). Failure or success, a stolen portion is always worth scolding.Green mangoes are an essential ingredient in Trinidadian cuisine, such as kutchela, chutney, takari and my favorite breakfast dish-chow chow. This is a garlic, tangy, tart fruit salad that is most often prepared with mango, but apple, pineapple, tomato sauce and cucumber can also be present. On my morning trip to Maracas Beach, on the island's northern coast, I'll notice vendors opening up stalls selling all sorts of food. It's a popular filling for shark sandwiches and cookies, grilled meats, and any curry dishes — my stomach growls as I type it.Hard green mangoes are sliced, marinated in lime juice, and seasoned with shado beni, a prickly coriander plant. If you can't find shado beni at your local grocery store, you'll definitely find it in any market in the West Indies or Mexico. We may not live on the island in huts without electricity (as some suggest), but we eat chow with our hands. Stick to this tradition — you'll love to lick your hands when the bowl is empty — just keep a glass of water handy, because everything is bound to get spicy.Trinidad Mango Soup
Peel and slice the mango; toss the slices in a large mixing bowl.Slice the limes and squeeze over the mango slices.Add the pepper, garlic, shado beni, salt and pepper to the bowl and mix with your hands.Serve immediately or allow the fruit to marinate slightly and eat later.