Go Big and Make Scones

Think about this: a bun is not a cookie. You can't just put dried fruit in a sponge cake batter, sprinkle it with sugar and invite me to tea. The bun has its own unique texture. They should turn out to be crumbly, not flaky, and be strong enough to take with you (on the way to work or maybe just on the couch) and spread well with butter, jam or whipped cream. But the main thing is tenderness. This paradox forces you to keep the line between fat and structure, meaning you don't want to sacrifice one for the other. Most buns are cut into shapes before baking, which means that the dough should be dry enough to be cut and firm enough to be transferred to the baking tray in its raw state, resulting in dense, dry fruit-filled balls that require so much oil that they can become harmful for your health.I've tried many ways in the past to combat their inherent dryness — whipping up butter, adding a couple of egg yolks to the mix-but the extra weight causes the buns to sway and fall off as the fat melts in the oven. Then I had a brainstorming session after eating my friend's grandmother's Irish soda bread. They had the texture of my perfect bun, a golden crust, and they were sliced like a dream. Why couldn't you bake one huge bun and then cut it into pieces of the right size?I took this recipe as a basis, baked them in one large circle and cut them into the necessary triangles after I took them out of the oven. By baking in a large format, I can start with a fuller dough without worrying about losing shape. And while vanity isn't everything, texture is everything. Larger buns bake more slowly, which gives the butter more time to melt and keeps the interior moist without compromising the shape.Feel free to experiment with flavorings: golden raisins and fennel seeds are my favorites, but you can add sliced dried apricots and fresh rosemary, or currants and orange zest. You can make savory ones and add a little crumbled bacon and a little grated cheese, or you can just leave them without baking. Serve with plenty of softened butter and a small amount of jam. The next day, they will be just as delicious if they are divided, fried and spread with even more butter.Giant buns
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly brush with non-stick spray. In a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, wholemeal flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add the raisins and fennel seeds and whisk until smooth. Add the butter and use your fingers to crush the flour until smooth, leaving a few pea-sized chunks of butter.Make a well in the flour mixture, add the milk and, using a fork, mix until smooth (the dough will be sticky). Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet and form an 8-to 9-inch circle. With a sharp knife, cut out a cross on the dough and sprinkle with a little more sugar (about 1 tablespoon). Bake until golden brown, until the bun is hollow when tapped with your finger, 45-50 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before slicing.